Transmission Flush

Posts Tagged ‘Fluid’

Automatic and manual transmissions or transaxles perform the same task, but do it in quite different ways.  Both transmit engine power to the vehicle’s drive train.  But in a manual transmission, gears are often moving at different speeds.  Obviously this means they can’t mesh, and trying to make them mesh causes the gears to grind. It sounds unpleasant because it is. Grinding is a metal on metal impact that harms the gears and throws off metal fragments that contaminate the lubricant and can cause further damage to metal surfaces.  Oil for manual transmissions is especially important because it needs to protect gears against this damage. 

A synchromesh manual transmission is designed to solve the grinding problem by ensuring that the gears are moving at the same speed before they’re engaged.  Here, oil viscosity becomes an issue.  The oil needs to provide a strong lubricating film, while not being so thick that it throws off gear speeds and keeps the synchromesh system from doing its job.

A synthetic manual transmission and differential oil can offer significant advantages over a conventional lubricant.  As with other synthetic oils, synthetic oil for manual transmissions runs cooler for longer service life, improves fuel economy, and provides a more stable lubricating film to protect metal parts.

One of the key benefits of synthetic manual transmission and differential oil is its purity.  Synthetics are engineered to contain only the desired molecules and additives to meet various specific purposes.  They lack the by-products that make it through the conventional oil refining process, and are designed to resist oxidation and wear.  As a result, synthetics don’t suffer from sludge buildup, acids, and other harmful by-products that can shorten the life of conventional oils.

Precise control over viscosity also helps reduce drag on components in the manual transmission or differential.  This lets the lubricant do its job while improving overall fuel economy and providing smoother shifting for better overall performance.

For better operation over a range of temperatures, longer drain intervals and reduced drive train wear, better fuel economy and, most importantly, better shifting performance, a synthetic manual transmission and differential oil can be the answer.

An automobile’s automatic transmission, much like it’s engine, uses a fluid or lubricant to protect it’s intricate, metal parts from wearing during use.  Like an engine, the automatic transmission is subject to high temperatures from the friction of these parts.  These extreme conditions tend to break down the strength and viscosity of it’s fluid over time.  The automatic transmission also uses it’s own fluid as a means of cooling where an automobile engine has a separate fluid, coolant or anti-freeze, for this sole purpose.  The automatic transmission fluid is cooled by being cycled through lines to an external cooler.  The cooler is much like a radiator for engine coolant.  For these basic reasons, synthetic, automatic transmission fluid, which withstands heat better and takes longer to break down than conventional fluids over time, tends to work better in automobile automatic transmissions.

When compared to engine oil, automatic transmission fluid plays many more necessary roles in its operation and is much different in its composition.  An automatic transmission is a hydraulic device using a series of gears and passages to transform the power created by the engine into the different speeds of a vehicle at it’s wheels.  Automatic transmission fluid is the means for this by acting as a hydraulic fluid as well as a lubricant, traveling through a series of passages or channels, and affecting the movement of the gears.  This movement or coupling of the gears automatically changes their ratios, thereby, changing the speed of an output shaft, and then, in turn, the wheels.  In order to complete so many more tasks than regular engine oil, the fluid used in an automatic transmission must have a very specific composition.  Synthetic, automatic transmission fluid can be scientifically engineered for these more specific applications which makes it a better choice for the automobile’s automatic transmission.

Unlike engine oil, with it’s recommended, regular servicing at intervals of three thousand to five thousand miles, automatic transmission fluid is changed much less often.  Most vehicle manufacturers recommend changing the fluid in an automatic transmission every thirty thousand miles.  Logically, because it is changed ten times less often, it must withstand those extreme conditions ten times longer.  As discussed before, synthetic, automatic transmission fluid tends to break down at a much slower rate than conventional, petroleum based oils.  With it’s need to withstand thirty thousand miles of extreme heat, constant pressure and wear, synthetic, automatic transmission fluid, therefore, is a superior choice to those conventional oils.

Information concerning fluid levels

Fluid level is spoken about often here are the facts. With and auto trans and in particular the 4L60E there is no such thing as low. If you let the trans get even 1/2 quart low you will and or have damaged your transmission. They are absolutely not forgiving. We recently did some intentional test with a unit we use to check different ideas. Here is what we found, At 1/2 quart low approximately 1/2 inch bellow pan rail we ran the transmission. We monitored pressure. The pressure in this condition was completely unstable. Jumping from very low to beyond the max of our 300 PSI gauge’s. When you changed gears particularly on the 2-3 3-4 and the reverse gears this condition became worse. I could easily see how after doing these test you could do a lot of damage to your transmission even this small amount low. In the case of the low pressure the result would be obvious burned frictions however at the same time the pressure spikes could just as easily break parts, push out snap rings etc causing serious damage and or sudden failures.

Now in a past test several years ago I did a similar test going in the other direction too much fluid. Here is what happened there, this was however unlike the first test with a 4l60e it was a 700r4 though would imagine the results would be similar. Adding one quart over after hitting the full line did not seem to have any notable effect. However adding two quarts over the trans began again to have pressures resembling the low fluid scenario the pressure dropped and spiked erratically and of course the fluid began quickly to resemble the appearance of the low fluid trans lots of air bubbles and since a trans is not so different from a brake system the result was similar. You cannot have stable hydraulic pressure with air in the fluid.

The air created in the low fluid scenario is a result of the filter becoming uncovered and the pump pulling air into the system. With the resulting crazy pressure readings and the extremely high fluid this occurred because the internal rotational assemblies in the transmission were acting a lot like a blender and churning air into the fluid more rapidly than it could bubble out.

The Point on this is fluid level is imperatively important with and auto. There is no such thing as a little low. A little low means you just took years off the life of your transmission or even killed it right now.

All transmission should always be kept at the top of the crosshatch level warm running in park or neutral. Ideally I wish there was a way to assure the transmission fluid was equal to the pan rail level in gear running . But I do understand why they don’t have you checking it that way

Another thing that should be addressed is aftermarket and stock deep pans. Some aftermarket pans while deep do not require a deep filter. Others require and extension. Still others use the deep filter like goes in the truck 4L60E. Always carefully read the pan manufacturers instructions. While regardless of the pan type the dip stick will still read the level correctly. If you for instance use a deep pan with the wrong filter bear in mind GM actually used the bottom of the pan to hold the filter up in place. True the little seal feels tight holding it in the pump but it can work its way out and drop into the pan when used this way. This will result in the transmission acting like its low on fluid even when its not. At the same time if you place a filter that’s too tall for your pan combination it will crack in the neck area and again cause the symptom of low fluid. I thought I would mention this because we have run into this with some of our own customers changing pans and not being aware of the filter differences and requirements. So always make sure you are using the correct type filter for the pan you are installing. Also note when installing a transmission. If you do not provide even support across the pan again you can bend the pan and damage the filter causing the same set of symptoms.

(1) Before attempting to change your fluid, you should check and make sure that you have choked the wheels of your vehicle, so as to prevent your vehicle from rolling.

(2) Raise up the front of your vehicle with a jack, high enough that you can get underneath and work comfortably. (Transmission fluid is located within the transmission fluid pan, underneath the vehicle, directly behind the engine.)

(3) Find the bolts that are holding up your transmission pan. You will have to find the proper size of Socket to remove the bolts and drop the transmission pan.

(4) Then start by removing all of the bolts except the corner bolts.

(5) The transmission pan will be completely full of fluid, so you will have to use a 6-10 quart drain pan. This is to prevent the fluid from spilling on the ground.

(6) Loosen the remaining corner bolts and place the drain pan under the end of the pan that will remove first.

(7) Remove either the front corner bolts or the back bolts and catch the fluid and drain as much as you can before completely removing the transmission pan.

(8) Place one hand underneath the transmission pan while removing the remaining bolts.

(10) Slowly lower the pan to the ground and place the pan out of the way, so as not to spill the remaining fluid. (Look up at the bottom of the transmission, you will see a filter hanging in place, it’s just held on loosely by a rubber grommet.)

(11) Gently pull down on the filter, and remove it. (When buying a new filter, it is a good idea to take the old one with you so as to buy the proper filter for your car)

(12) Take the new filter out of the package and place it in the same location where you took off the old one. (Be sure that the rubber grommet is in place on the new filter) Place the filter in the proper location on the transmission and push up firmly so as to get it in place.

(13) Drain old fluid out of transmission pan, completely.

(14) Replace the pan bolts, corners first.

(15) Then put in the remaining bolts all the way around the pan.

(16) Use your socket and ratchet and tighten the bolts one across the pan from the other until all the bolts are snug.

(17) Replace transmission fluid as recommended in your owners’ manual.

Remember safety first and make sure that you have choked the wheels of the vehicle to keep it stabilized during fluid change.

It is always recommended that you check the car’s transmission fluid at least every month or any time that the transmission is not shifting smoothly. This is important because it will help in the optimization of the performance of many components of the car. It is advisable to look up the manual so as to determine the intervals that you are required to change the fluid. Therefore to change your transmission fluid, consider the following steps.  

You should start by first parking the car on a level ground. This should then be followed by starting up the engine and then the gear should be left on a neutral or park. You should then leave the engine to warm up. It is advisable to leave the engine running all through this process unless the manual states otherwise. You should then get the dipstick from the back of the engine. The dipstick resembles the engine dipstick even though it is normally shorter.  

The dipstick should then be pulled out and removed completely. This may take a long time since the dipstick is long. After this, the dipstick should be wiped out with a rag then replaced back into the engine. It should then be pushed all the way into the engine and removed again. You should then examine the tip of the dipstick. This should enable you to determine if there are two different full markings. Normally the dipstick shows two markings, one for the warm readings and the other one for the cold readings. You should check whether the transmission fluid comes up to the line marked full on the warm reading. If it does not, you should then add the transmission fluid. 

It is advisable to add the transmission fluid to the hole where the dipstick came from. A funnel with a long narrow neck will be useful in this task. It is recommended that you add only a small amount of the transmission fluid at a time and always remember to check the level using the dipstick every time. Be careful not to add too much as it may difficult to take it out. Once you are through, put back the dipstick.

The transmission fluid for lower mileage cars should be changed in at least every 25,000 miles. It is recommended that you maintain the transmission fluid early in the life of the vehicle. This is because changing the transmission fluid later on may cause some trouble to the car. Regularly servicing the vehicle will help to make its life expectancy longer, increase its performance and also make the shifting smoother.  

Higher mileage cars should have their transmission fluid changed in less than 80,000 miles. In case the transmission is not maintained, you should avoid replacing the fluid as well as the filter.  This is because at this time, the fluid will be dirty and gritty and this is important for providing the friction necessary for the worn out internal parts of the transmission. The transmission should be serviced regularly.

Of all components that a car needs to run smoothly, the transmission plays one of the biggest roles because it is what assists in gear shifting thus propelling a car accordingly. If not checked regularly, it could lead to car malfunction and expensive costs of repair. Transmission fluid just like oil needs to be checked regularly for appropriate maintenance of a car and this is normally done after every 25,000 miles driven. This fluid is a lubricant, viscous in nature and eases the movement of components within both manual and automatic transmission systems. It also goes further to assist in torque conversion, valve operation, and break friction.  

Most cars come with a dipstick, which is specifically made to check the levels of transmission fluid. It is usually a shorter stick than the one used to check oil levels and often has a red cap. To check the levels, remove the dipstick and wipe its shaft clean. Then dip it back in its compartment and pull it out again. The stick has two lines on it and the fluid level should lie between these two lines. After confirmation of the level of transmission fluid, wipe the stick with a white piece of fabric and this is done purposely to verify the fluid’s color. If it has a pinkish tint, then it is okay but if it has a dark hue then it is likely that the transmission has a problem. The smell has to be checked too and if the transmission fluid smells burnt or pungent then it should be changed as soon as possible. If the fluid is found to be below the recommended levels, then put a funnel over the opening for the dipstick and carefully direct the new fluid through. Check the level once more to find out if it is appropriate. Note that this procedure should be done when the car engine is off and cool. 

In vehicles with manual transmission, the contamination of the fluid is a major issue. This happens because of regular use of gears, synchronizers and bearings, which leads to corrosion of the metallic components. Residue particles eventually end up in the transmission fluid. When this happens, the fluid cannot work effectively as required and needs to be replaced. Transmission fluid for automatic transmission happens to be prone to contamination caused by excessive heat exposure during the transmission process. Because of this, the fluid loses a lot of its important lubricating ability and accumulates pollutants lowering the cars overall performance. Another scenario when the transmission fluid could be affected is when a vehicle sits idle for a long period. There is a possibility of metallic shavings making their way into the fluid therefore flushing out the old fluid is necessary. It is worth noting that the level of transmission fluid should be carried out when the car is on a level surface in order to get the correct readings. Regular checking of the transmission fluid is vital to ensure the car functions optimally. 

Automatic transmission fluid fulfills a unique role in a vehicle’s drive train.  Most of an engine’s moving parts require some kind of lubrication to prevent wear and work their best, and the transmission’s no exception.  It needs an oil to lubricate its gears and cool its torque converter.  But an automatic transmission is also a hydraulic device – it uses a hydraulic coupling to select gears, as well as to couple and decouple the drive train from the engine to, for example, allow the car to remain idling while the engine continues to run.

The fluid used for this hydraulic coupling is the same automatic transmission fluid used to lubricate the transmission’s moving parts.  In other words, an automatic transmission uses the same fluid both as a lubricant and as a hydraulic fluid, a physical medium that transmits power from the engine to the gears.

Because it has to act as both lubricating oil and hydraulic fluid, automatic transmission fluid is one of the most complex oil-type fluids in a vehicle.  Both its chemical and physical properties have to be just right.  Since electronic selector channels in a transmission can be very narrow, viscosity becomes especially important in an automatic transmission fluid. If the fluid becomes too thin at high operating temperatures, or too thick in cold outside temperatures, it can cause shifting problems and even reduce the life of the transmission.

Because of the high demand placed on automatic transmission fluid, a synthetic formulation can do the job better than a conventional petroleum-based product.  A synthetic automatic transmission fluid can be engineered to precise specifications that give it better resistance to oxidation and better overall fuel economy.  It can provide clean operation and smooth shifting over a greater range of temperatures.  And it can do all this while providing the longer drain intervals and better lubricating properties of synthetics.

Synthetic automatic transmission fluid can also extend the life of your transmission.  A synthetic automatic transmission fluid runs cooler and cleaner than a conventional transmission fluid.  It’s much less vulnerable to breakdown by-products that can clog equipment, and eventually require major repair work on the transmission.

From improved fuel economy to extending the life of your transmission, a synthetic automatic transmission fluid will outperform a conventional lubricant.  And a transmission is no place to settle for second best.